Sailaway

 

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VIII - We Continue on to the island of Corsica, France.

 

To view our previous log entries please use the following link:

The long road journey begins from the UK to Sailaway, based in Carloforte on the Isola San Pietro, Sardinia, we continue in Italy and visit Rome & Livorno, from where we catch the ferry to Corsica.

 

To view our next log entries please use the following link:

The long road journey begins from the UK to Sailaway, based in Carloforte on the Isola San Pietro, Sardinia, we continue by ferry to Sardinia then onto Carloforte, Sardinia, Italy.

 

Log Entry Monday 29th May - We say "Goodbye" to Corsica and "Hello" to Sardinia.

Our ferry was around 5pm, there was no hurry as when I enquired as to what time we had to vacate the site and explained why, they said "leave when we want as long as we check out when we do." We packed up in time, said goodbye to our beach and made for our ferry.

The whole process was as usual, very simple and straight forward, we had been warned to turn up earlier as there would be extra security due to the "G8 Summit" being held in Sicily, but, no real issues.

The ferry trip was about 5 hours which would have us arriving late in Sardinia, we have booked accommodation in Porto Torres, Sardinia as putting up the tent in the dark was of no great interest to us. The second reason was as we saw in Corsica, there was very little difference in the price of camping and the accommodation. The ferry was well equipped and the time passed quickly, after dropping us off it carried on to France, this is how we will probably return to the UK in October.

 

 

Log Entry Sunday 28th May - Time to get to know Porto Vecchio, we sail for Sardinia tomorrow.

The site is only a mile or so from the port, we pop in to town for bits and pieces and a look around, it has various direct functions, ferry port, marina and holiday resort. The whole area is very clean and well kept, very pleasant to walk around, boats always interest us for some reason?

There was an interesting bust at the entrance to the port, initially it meant nothing to me but the reason behind it made me curious.

Courtesy of "wikipedia":

Filippo Antonio Pasquale di Paoli FRS (pronounced [fiˈlippo anˈtɔːnjo paˈskwaːle di ˈpaːoli]; French: Pascal Paoli; 6 April 1725 – 5 February 1807) was a Corsican patriot and leader, the president of the Executive Council of the General Diet of the People of Corsica. Paoli designed and wrote the Constitution of the state.

The Corsican Republic was a representative democracy asserting that the elected Diet of Corsican representatives had no master. Paoli held his office by election and not by appointment. It made him commander-in-chief of the armed forces as well as chief magistrate. Paoli's government claimed the same jurisdiction as the Republic of Genoa. In terms of de facto exercise of power, the Genoese held the coastal cities, which they could defend from their citadels, but the Corsican republic controlled the rest of the island from Corte, its capital.[2]

Following the French conquest of Corsica in 1768, Paoli oversaw the Corsican resistance. Following the defeat of Corsican forces at the Battle of Ponte Novu he was forced into exile in Britain where he was a celebrated figure. He returned after the French Revolution which he was initially supportive of. He later broke with the revolutionaries and helped to create the Anglo-Corsican Kingdom which lasted between 1794 and 1796. After the island was re-occupied by France he again went into exile in Britain where he died in 1807.

 

The waterfront was some what different, for example, we tried a couple of cafes/restaurants for drinks, we were refused a table unless we ate also? This was our first experience of such behaviour on our trip, we may have eaten in time but to be "told you had too!" was a little annoying? The third one we asked said we could have drinks but they needed the table back in 45 minutes - we took up the offer as it was the view we wanted to enjoy? By the time we had finished our visit, shopping done etc, we walked past the same restaurants. As we did so at what was there peak lunch time, most were empty, clearly not as busy as they had anticipated? Still this was to be the one and only visit so no real harm to us, strange to refuse business especially when we had just paid almost €10 for two coffees and we checked, all the pricing was similar?

 

Log Entry Saturday 27th May - Time to make our way south to Porto Vecchio for the ferry to Sardinia.

We still had a couple of days before our ferry to Sardinia, we tried to stay at the apartment a little longer, but it was all booked out. We had to return to our original plan and head south to Porto Vecchio and spend a couple of days there waiting for our ferry. It was a drive of about 80 miles, the satnav was telling us almost 3 hours with stops due to the type of road, we have the time. The slower road speed also allows me to take in a lot more of what we pass, a sign of aging?

We had decided to break up the drive at the biggest town en route, a town called "Solenzara" as we entered on the main road it seemed quite interesting as we drove down the main street as all traffic had too. We also knew it had a Marina, that we must find. We turned off the main street and as you passed through the couple of rows of more traditional buildings it opened up to what could only be described as an incomplete development, building had stopped on a lot of it some time ago? It was an ok place to stretch the legs but a little sad to see a small shopping centre attached to the marina, all but one of the six shops closed? Still, there are many places like this, we even tried the cafe in the complex, the old boy seemed disgusted at the fact we could not speak fluent French and he sent his son out to serve us, waving his hands behind him as he mumbled on? We paid for our drinks and told them to forget about the food.

When we arrive at Porto Vecciho we were pleased to find that the campsite we had chosen, one of many was right on the beach, literally. The staff were excellent and very helpful.

Just off our beach there were a couple of boats at anchor, in the distance we could see from where we would catch our ferry on Monday. We were now ready to get back to Sailaway, we were both beginning to miss her, it has been a great trip, a fantastic experience that we would never forget but, time to get back onto the water!

 

Log Entry Friday 26th May- After a couple of rather lazy days we head back up into the mountains for the last time.

We had an issue with a trusty Golf this week, a fault developed on the ABS System (Anti-lock Braking System), the front offside sensor had failed, we thought it best to have it fixed as soon as possible. In the local area there were a number of garages equipped to confirm and complete the repair, we could have continued with the fault but the concentration of suitable garages may not always be available ahead. It took 2 days to source and have the repair complete, hence a lazy couple of days? The price was a little over the top but we were tourists and we were seen to almost immediately, worth the premium? Not bad really, our first repair on this trip, with about 3000 miles covered till now, and not easy driving.

We defined Corsica as being a two type of holiday option, beach or mountains, we would choose mountains any day, off we go! We head west into the "P.N.R de Corse", effective there equivalent of our Nation Trust Organisation. Our first stop is a small town of "Corte", it's thirsty work taking all this new scenery in, Ann needs her latte! We are also encourage by the appearance of a brightly coloured roadside cafe!

Apart from the cafe there was very little to the village other than a large War Memorial holding a proud position, extremely well kept. We enjoy our coffees and then disappear again into the narrow country lanes, the trucks using them delivering etc puts a bit more interest to the drive. They are usually travelling far faster than us. They clearly know the lanes well and they are so large no one in their right mind is not going to stop for them!

The first town size population is "Verdèse", like most of these villages their streets are stacked on the hillsides.

The views from here are fantastic, we pull over with our picnic lunch Ann has prepared.

This drive reminds us so much of our journey into the Sardinia mountains many years ago, the livestock wandering free is great to see, as long as you see them in time to miss them?

Just to the north of the town of "Orezza" we find the "The Saint François Convent of Orezza", originally a religious centre with an almost cursed history, it must have been enormous and very grand in it's time? The original convent built in 1492 by the local miners, it was then passed to Franciscans. They then built a church with six chapels which in 1832, all fell into ruins. At this time the state engaged a disastrous process for selling it to private individuals. During WW2, the convent and its buildings were occupied by Italian troops who had set up an ammunition depot, which they had blown up at the approach of the Germans, this literally brought an end to the ruins. Many decades has passed by since, many voices have risen to wish or claim its restoration, a demand made credible by the unquestionable historical interest of this place. It must be the cost which must be prohibitive, not helped by it's location?

We stop in the town of "Orezza" for refreshments, another roadside cafe in the village outside the only hotel, again a great setting.

After our refreshments we continue on our way, no particular target just south and eventually east to bring us to the main coastal road north, back to our apartment.

We came across a lot of livestock assuming they had right of way, we have all the time in the world, no problem to us? They certainly appeared happy to have there photograph taken.

We climbed up the highest peaks of the park, eventually the east coast of Corsica came into view.

As we began to descend we were brought to halt by a dog standing it's ground in the road, ahead were a couple of trucks, both drivers on mobiles? There was a small-holding just above the roadside, a landslide had brought down it's fencing releasing goats and horses. This was just our assumption as they seemed at home, they may have had nothing to do with the holding just passing by as they do? The two drivers finished their telephone conversations, both waved at us and then drove off in different directions?

We returned the wave and smiled, then made our way through the livestock, still, they should be ok, it seemed as if the dog had taken ownership of them? We continued on the road down the valley towards the sea.

We had almost joined the main road when we were again brought to a halt, this time a heard of goats looking for their shepherd we thought?

A great day out, much seen and a completely different, relaxed way of life seen!

 

Log Entry Tuesday 23rd May- We have a run up to Bastia, to the north.

Bastia is a busy ferry port, it was here we arrived late Saturday night, it also sees a fair amount of commercial trade. I had checked on the internet, there was not a great deal here, plenty of churches and a Citadel? We though it was worth a visit as it was only about 18 miles from us and one of the largest towns on the island.

Place Saint Nicolas - The square is 280 x 80 metres wide, it was name after a church and a medieval hospital, both structures demolished in 1889.

Both statues in the square had an interesting story behind them, read on.

The Monument to Napoleon I - The Carrara marble statue stands about 8 metres high. It was originally ordered by Elisa Baciocchi, Napoleon's sister when she was the Grand duchess of Tuscany. The sculptor, Lorenzo Bartolini, finished it in 1814. Unfortunately the Empire fell and the statue remained with the sculptors studio for almost 50 years. In 1849, one year before he died it was purchased from his heirs and was finally positioned in 1854.

War Memorial - The intension to build this memorial had been expressed since 1895, not until 1912 was authorisation given apparently and a model was presented in 1913. The order was given to two local sculptures from Bastia, unfortunately the war broke out and the project was postponed. After the First World War concluded, with over 11,000 Corsicans dead the local artists were again commissioned and the monument was finished five years later in 1925.

We enquired with the tourist information centre in the square, the only other thing they could recommend we looked at was the Citadel, we have seen enough of those thanks we thought and hit the road, back home!

 

Believe it or not, tonight was our third bloody barbecue! I think I have not done that many in all 11 years of us travelling? I added some entertainment for Ann this time, as I tried to add more charcoal from it's paper sack I failed to realise that the sack caught fire? I had to drop the lot onto the barbecue, still we both laughed, no more charcoal, means no more barbecues!

 

 

Log Entry Monday 22nd May - A lazy day, a walk along the waterfront to the local Marina.

Today we decide to stay in the apartment and take it easy, a rest day. Soon we are bored so we wonder what the marina is like that we can see in the distance, shortest route a walk along the waterfront.

This section of shoreline is not beached, and it is obviously very open to the winter storms due to the amount of wood and debris on the shoreline. The sandy shoreline is also eroding quickly, literally felling trees as the sea takes the land?

We continue for as far as easily possible, then we have a dirt track running parallel to the shore, it is used by vehicles, we take that, still heading towards the marina.

As we arrive at what looks like a very badly silted/dried port we see that the vehicles belong to the fishermen with boats on the closed side of the harbour. A little troublesome but I assume they are not paying marina fees?

The marina, "Santa-Maria-Poggio Marina" is quite small, squashed in after the reeds, they have their own dredger but appear to be struggling with the silting, all of the sections of water along the promenade are unusable even by small craft? Off the pontoons in deeper water 10-15 metre sailboats can be seen. The development holds two restaurants, we pick one and sit outside for refreshment, vastly over priced but never mind?

After that it is back to the apartment, our second barbecue running, we never usually eat red meat so this week we are treating ourselves, pork last night, steaks tonight.

And, if I must say, perfect of course!

 

Log Entry Sunday 21st May - Our curiosity takes us high up into the hills around us?

We wake up after our first nights sleep in our new home for a week, the view from our bed is quite impressive, straight out over the patio and over the sea? A stay in Corsica appears to be one of two things, the beach or the mountains. We pick the mountains today, they run down the centre of island from north to south, most of it a national park.

We head west towards "San-Giovanni-di-Mortani" the roads are very narrow, quite unique as most have a centre white line but they are not wide enough for two cars? The views are fascinating, it is not long at all before we pull over to allow us both to take in the scenery. The roads are not only narrow but seem to be a series of constant bends, full concentration needed not to steer over the edge or hit an on coming vehicle? We are looking to sea and can see the area in which our apartment sits down below.

We carry on climbing, as we do the road condition worsens and we also hit a series of tiny tunnels, no signs, warning, makes the drive more interesting?

One of the first of the many villages we come to is "Cervione" not a lot here really but the dwellings fascinate us, we pull over for our lunch that Ann had prepared, just as well we have seen no shops, cafes, nothing like that for the last 1.5 hours? Every village we have passed through have property at both ends of the spectrum, falling down or renovated, sometimes both ends next door or in close proximity?

When you look at the property in question, you wonder why they would risk renovating a property next to a one that looks to be falling down, especially when built on the hillside as they are? Still I suppose they may have been like that for decades, and will probably stand for decades more?

 

The name of this gathering was unknown as there were no signs, and according to the satnav there was nothing there? There was one thing for sure at some time it had some form of shop?

We caught numerous sighting of large birds of pray hovering effortlessly, searching for prey, not sure what they were, but resemble the "Red Kites" recently introduced into the UK?

We were hoping to see the many wild boars known to be wandering these hills, we did find this pig pen on the roadside, not another building/owner to be seen.

We eventually came to "San Giovanni di Moriani" and it's Citadel, well ok we saw it but it looked like the building had not been used for sometime, some of the tombs were maintained, most heavily over grown, lost in the foliage, shame.

We eventually after about three hours driving, averaging about 20 mile per hour we came across our first cafe, five guys were sitting outside having lunch.

The view from the balcony was brilliant we drank our coffee looking down on a lot of the small villages we had passed through, in the far distance the shoreline where we were to return for the night.

We came across yet another church with war memorial etc, we stopped mainly to take in the views and take a photograph of the cafe we had just left.

We took one last look up before we left the church, high above us sat the cafe where we had just had coffee.

This picture is here to remind us of what we just missed, a family of wild boar feeding by the roadside, two adults and three piglets, they all ran of when they saw us?

It was not long before we returned to camp, tonight was barbecue time, it was a bit breezy so difficult to light? I improvised and lit it initially in the bedroom, then wheeled it out onto the patio, what a meal!

 

Log Entry Saturday 20th May - We leave Italy on a ferry to Bastia, Corsica this afternoon.

We have enjoyed our couple of nights in the apartment after six weeks under canvas, made a change, and as they say "A change is as good as a rest!" Our ferry to Corsica sails at 1400 hours, we agree to have the apartment until 1200 instead of 1000, that saves wandering around filling in time?

The checking in procedure is straight forward and fast, there was a problem somewhere we were actually over two hours late boarding? I have arranged as a surprise for Ann a beach site apartment south of Bastia. I call ahead to confirm our late arrival, we will now not reach the apartment until about 2330. Ann is already expressing her disappointment of having to put the tent up in the dark so I break the good news to her!

Once all aboard the departure is rapid, we leave the busy dock lands at speed making for open water. I had informed the Captain that if he had any issues I would help out, but, he seemed ok as I never heard from him?

We got our first glimpse of the Corsican coast just as the sun was falling, we had hoped he would make up some of the lost time but we actually docked about 2.5 hours late! Now to find the apartment in the dark?

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